In the 80th episode of Jam With Sam, host Sampath Iyengar welcomes Antoine Lewis, a celebrated food writer, restaurant critic, and culinary adventurer. From his eclectic educational background to his fascinating career in food journalism and gastronomy, Antoine shares insights, experiences, and his thoughts on the evolving food scene.
A Childhood Shaped by Curiosity
Growing up in Colaba, Mumbai, Antoine’s formative years were characterized by a love for reading and an inherent sense of iconoclasm. A graduate of St. Xavier’s College, he pursued English literature before delving into hotel management and film and television studies. This unique combination of disciplines set the foundation for his multifaceted career in food and media.
Antoine’s passion for food began in the eighth standard, where he realized a lifelong connection to gastronomy. Despite initially envisioning a career in the hotel industry, he found his true calling in food journalism and culinary storytelling.
From Research Assistant to Cuisine Editor
Antoine’s professional journey began with an assignment as a research assistant for a talk show hosted by Amol Gupte, where his passion for food was recognized. He later became a cuisine editor at the Sunday Observer, a role he secured serendipitously after a chance encounter with the publication’s editor.
His career trajectory includes contributions to renowned publications like Savvy Cookbook, Khaleej Times Cookbook, and Times Good Food Guide. These stints allowed him to shape food narratives and explore diverse culinary cultures, cementing his reputation as a trusted voice in food journalism.
Adventures in Food and Wine
Antoine’s experience extends beyond writing to curating experiences around food and wine. As a contributor to High Living Liquid, a spirits magazine, he travelled across Italy, Germany, and France, exploring vineyards and refining his understanding of wine culture. His preference? Italian wines, which he describes as unparalleled in their character and flavour.
He also spent years crafting restaurant reviews and food columns for publications like Midday, indulging in his love for discovering hidden culinary gems and unique gastronomic stories.
Beyond Writing: Teaching and Advocacy
Antoine’s expertise has led him to mentor aspiring food writers. He spent four years teaching a food writing module at St. Paul’s Institute of Communication Education, blending theory with hands-on workshops. His candid observation? Young people are often less inclined to absorb wisdom from their elders!
More recently, Antoine has collaborated with the Humane Society of India, working on initiatives to introduce cage-free eggs into the market. His advocacy reflects a commitment to ethical and sustainable food practices, a growing priority in the industry.
The Evolution of Food Criticism
As the food scene in India has evolved, so has the nature of food criticism. Antoine laments the rise of short-form blogging and Zomato reviews, which prioritize simplicity over nuance. While he acknowledges the role of platforms like Google Local Guides, he stresses the importance of critical, well-informed food writing to elevate public discourse.
On the state of restaurant hygiene in India, Antoine is brutally honest: many establishments lack reliable certification and fail to meet basic standards. However, he encourages diners to give restaurants a second chance, acknowledging that even the best establishments can falter.
What’s Next for Antoine Lewis?
Currently, Antoine serves as the Associate Festival Director for the Tata Literature Live! Festival, a role he has held for nine years. He also hosts a radio show on 94.3 Radio One, discussing food and books, combining his two great loves.
Looking ahead, Antoine envisions writing a book, potentially on the history of restaurants in Mumbai or lazy man’s recipes—quick and simple dishes for modern lifestyles. His blog, Curly Head Cook, remains a testament to his culinary creativity and wit.
About Antoine Lewis:
Antoine Lewis is an acclaimed food writer, restaurant critic, and gastronomy expert. With a career spanning publications like Sunday Observer, Midday, and BBC Good Food, he is also an advocate for ethical food practices. When not exploring culinary trends, Antoine can be found reading, cooking, or hosting his popular radio show on 94.3 Radio One.